My new old Marlin Model 81-DL. Questions. (Photos)

[TheBlackHand]

Hello, I recently purchased a Model 81-DL at auction for $80.00.



This rifle looks to be drilled for a scope. There are three holes in the left side of the reciever that I can see. The front two measure approximately 5/16 to 3/8 apart. The other hole is about 1/8 from the peep sight. I'm assuming there's a fourth hole beneath that sight The bolts on the peep are locked tight so I havent been able to check under there. (Any pointers on releasing old lock-tite?)



My main question is, what kind of vintage mount should I be looking for? I do want a vintage part since I'm planning on keeping the hardware true to form. I'd like to get a classic Weaver scope or something like it.



I also need a front sight hood. Looks like Numrich is sold out of the 81-DL hood. Will any Marlin .22 hood do?

Then I need screw-in sling swivels.

Finally, would I be wrong in thinking that my rifle is of pre-1942 vintage?



The stock is original. It was kind of rough when I bought it. I stripped it, sanded it (a little) and finished it with tung oil.

[SteveW]

First off - nice old 22 at a nice price!

The scope mount holes appear to be for the old Weaver 'N' side mount scope base. These were for the 3/4 inch scopes like the Weaver B6. These can still be found. One place that lists them is Vintage Sporting Arms & Accessories in Huntsville, Ala. 256-534-8383 or vintage3@bellsouth.net He might be able to help you with the hood, as well.

In a recent ad, he lists a variety of the old mounts & Weaver scopes. It doesn't appear that a vintage scope & mount would cost more than you paid for the rifle.

From the shape of the stock and the ramp-style front sight, I believe your rifle to be post-war and prior to 1964. The loc-tite can be a problem. Judicious application of heat and a properly fitting screwdriver are needed for this. This operation can go wrong very quickly, though & is best left to a gunsmith who has experience with it. SW

[oldwolf]

My old book shows a M81, C, E, DC and G. These are the tube feed models. I am guessing the DC in my book is wrong and it should say DL. The "DC" came with open rear sights, hooded front sight, peep rear, sling swivels. Introduced in 1940, dropped in 1965.

It also show a M80, E, C and DL. These have a box magazine.

Good looking rifle!

[modgun]

The loc-tite can be a problem. Judicious application of heat and a properly fitting screwdriver are needed for this. This operation can go wrong very quickly, though & is best left to a gunsmith who has experience with it. SW

Yup.

But if you do want to try, just get some good penetrating oil, and apply it (not much) twice a day (morning and night) for 3-4 days, without trying to turn it. After maybe 4 days get a good driver and try it. If nothing, repeat 3 day process once or twice more. (not the quickest way, but a good one)

If still nothing, and you want to try heat, first make sure any excess oil is wiped up. Then carefully apply heat, till hot (not too hot) then have an icecube handy and towel for the drips, and push that ice right on the thing while it is still hot. Do this a few times, letting it get hotter each time, and then "cold shock" it as quick as possible. Then try to loosen. Do not try to loosen while hot. You will deform the metal on a molecular level that you can t even see. It is better to heat and shock, so you get expansion and contraction, hopefully, breaking the bond. Many people like the constant high heat approach, which may be quicker, but it is not the best way.

There are much better options than ice, I wont go into exactly what I use as, theoretically, it could be dangerous. Ice is just a good example though.
Choose your heat source carefully also. Too many people just grab the torch and go crazy. Often a soldering iron will work just fine.

As was said, this can cause problems if youre not careful.
Take it to someone if youre worried. But its only an inexpensive plinker. A very nice one though!

[TheBlackHand]

Thanks guys, that is exactly the info I was looking for. I'll give that # a call & see what he's got. I'm heading to the gunsmith in a couple of days to pick up a couple of rifles that I dropped off a couple of weeks ago. Guess I'll leave this one with him as well.

The reason I was thinking my rifle might be pre-war was based on a post at oldguns.net. The guy said that a plastic trigger guard & paddle shaped forend meant it was pre-war. I think "beavertail" was the word he used to describe the stock. What's he mean by that? I notice that the stock on my rifle has a bulge in the forend from the receiver up.

Wish they'd have serial #'d these things.

[SteveW]

The earlier guns have a more pronounced bulge in the fore end. Stocks can easily be changed, though so the ramp front sight is the main age clue for me. SW