Marlin Shotgun Safety Check Question

[Blue Mesa]

I recently picked up a nice Marlin Model 30 shotgun in 20 gauge.

I intend to use it for CAS (Cowboy Action Shooting).

I've visted "Maurauder's" web page with very useful information.

I've taken it apart completely following his directions (I have a step by step photo set I made if anyone needs it).

My question is on the safety check. The first one listed talks about holding down the trigger while the chamber is open, then slowing sliding it forward. It says the hammer should stay cocked as the pump moves forward and not "ride down" with the bolt. Issue is it could slam fire. On mine, the hammer rides down. I've checked and no broken secondary sear, etc... I also confimed with a friend who has a model 42, and his does the same. I've even tried this with a live round and while the hammer rides down, it won't slam fire (actually some in CAS want their winchesters to do this).

So do you think I have a safety issue? Or were the newer models built differently. Mine is a 30G serial 5704.

tnx

Blue Mesa

[SteveW]

There may have been a typo there as the hammer of any firearm with out a disconnector will follow the breech block. I'm wondering if the article meant the hammer should not follow the breech block with the finger OFF the trigger.

In any case, try that. Slowly close the action with finger off trigger to see if the hammer will follow. This will show you that the hammer /sear geometry is proper. Also that some kitchen table gunsmith did not try to 'sweeten' the trigger with a large file and render it unsafe. SW

[Blue Mesa]

I took the gun completely apart, so no broken parts. Also I replaced the sear and spring with a new one, still same issue.

What is happening is once the hammer is "cocked" as in the trigger locked in the notch of the hammer, it can still be pulled back farther and then the secondary sear drops in and locks into the hammer. Once the bolt goes into battery, the sear toggles out of the hammer notch leaving only the trigger holding the hammer back like it should. Without this (first safety failure) the trigger can be pulled while the bolt is half closed and the hammer will drop onto the firing pin. Still the gun shouldn't fire as the "horn" (not sure what it is called), is still preventing the firing pin from going forward (second safety). If it fails too, then you are out of safeties and the shell will go off with the bolt still open.

So, for me at least, I believe the answer is to have about .040 - .045 of metal added onto the hammer (I have a replacement hammer and still the same issue). That way when the bolt is racked back, it will push the hammer down far enough to set the secondary sear (first safety).

Hope that helps anyone else who is trying to figure things out.

Blue Mesa

[Jim Susemihl]

Blue Mesa, I have had the same issue with one of my guns and I took a few thousandths off the toe of the safety sear so that it would drop into its notch in the hammer at about the same time that the trigger does. You have to make sure that the sear is square with everything so do the work carefully.
regards
Jim

On the Marlin hammer pump shotguns the hammer sould not follow the bolt when you close the gun with the trigger held. The safety sear should hold the hammer in the full cock position until the bolt is completely closed and the locking lug in the bolt is in battery. Then the hammer will fall. The point of the safety check is that the hammer should remain cocked as the bolt moves toward the closed position and is no longer hold the hammer down. This function MUST work for the gun to be safe along with the other safety features. I have a couple shotguns that I have not and will not load and fire because at this time all of the safety features do not operate as they should. When I get the time I will make all of the saefety features work and the I wll shoot them. I shoot all of my old Marlins at least once when I get them cleaned up and ready.

[Blue Mesa]

Jim,

Thanks for the ideas. Trimming off a bit on the safety sear is definately the way to go. Easier for an amateur (like me) to take metal off than to add metal to the hammer. I did this and it worked great. Took off about .010 from the toe of the sear and it fixed the problem. All safety checks working now. Off to the shoot tomorrow!

tnx

Blue Mesa

[shootrj2003]

My ''49'' does the same thing, can someone draw a picture of the sear and point out the ''toe'' of it to help me visualize the cure?Shootrj2003

[Emmett Dunham]

Take the parts out of the receiver, turn it so you can look through the carries opening, look to the back of the receiver and you will see the sear in between a lug next to were the carrier also sets into a lug. The screws to release the sear are on the outside of the receiver.

Take your time on removing material from the sear.



Emmett

[shootrj2003]

having spent the last few hours tearing it apart ,I am now pretty D*** familiar with this gun and ,having replaced my secondary sear spring[whicxh WAS broken ]with one I made with out of a saw blade ,I STILL DO HAve a problem and that is the same as yours,when I can I'll have to take it out and shorten the sear toe.
One thing, mine was pretty clean and is now real clean but I still need to hunt up some parts.There is A part that retains the action bar and the ring at the base of the mag tube on mine is split,also my barrel seems to be an oldeer one as it is marked with COMPANY not Corporation,but, all parts are the newest type in the action.thanks SHOOTRJ2003

[Emmett Dunham]

Sorry

I thought you had not had the shotgun apart. The toe of the sear rides on the locking bolt and moves the sear in and out of engagement, the other end is the blade end.


Relax


Emmett

[shootrj2003]

Emmet,I did not mean to give you the Idea that I was aggrivated by your post ,after I read it today I could see where you would get that idea.Quite on the contrary I am grateful for your assistance and advice and was talking partly tongue in cheek and partly because that gun had me really tired and aggrivated ! Only at it ,not at you,the apology is all mine,please forgive me I'll have to be more careful how I word my post's and what they appear to say.I really have no trouble learning from those who know more than I ,Again ,my apology.Shootrj2003
P.S. That WAS the first time I had it apart the particulars in my post to you at Marlinowners.John

[Emmett Dunham]

Thank, you! I hope you get your shotgun working I know how frustrating it can be to get everything going in the right direction.


Emmett

[shootrj2003]

Emmit, still no luck after taking off a bit of the toe I'm thinking the angle is off now because I can feel it catching closer to where the full cock notch does but it's not catching fully enough to stay engaged so i think i angled it or something ,between deer hunting and the yard and work i'll figure it out!Shootrj2003

[shootrj2003]

I got it working this time but it seems the sear is too short as if you pull the trigger on the way to full lock up the trigger toe will release and though the safety [secondary] sear will hold the hammer back until the locking block drops fully this is not an ideal or desirable situation . I"ve got another sear ordered and I'm also wondering couldn't a cure be effected by shortening
the trigger toe ? The Ideal situation I think would be where those two sears work at the same time , but it is beyond me to tell how to determine that when filing them.I think i'm figuring this gun out though=finally!Shootrj2003

[Emmett Dunham]

The sear is to stop the hammer from releasing until the bolt is locked into postiion, then it will release and fire the shell in the chamber if you keep the trigger pulled. The idea of the sear is to stop the shotgun from firing until there is lock up, if you shorten the sear blade and it releases the hammer before lock up you could have the bolt blown out of the gun. Check and double check this item to make sure you have it right!


Slam fire is not good, setting the round off prior to bolt lock up.


Stay safe


Emmett

[Jim Susemihl]

I checked out several of my guns and in every case the safety sear holds the hammer back a fraction farther than the trigger sear. So the trigger sear engages first as the bolt moves back and then the safety sear.