This is a detail of the front swivel inserts in the wood. They rotate when you try and take the screw out because of the type of inserts they are. But the swivel is tight so who cares.
Back swivel is pretty much identical to the front..
Everything on the gun is original I assure you. Still works like new too.. So Don what your saying is that I have winchester parts on my Marlin? Aww crud.. Well in any case ,thank you so very much in helping me out with all this.. If it is as rare as you say maybe i'll keep it in the case more often.. Or maybe not.. This gun was born to shoot..
- Brad -
Last edited by yerpdog on Thu Sep 11, 2008 12:20 am, edited 1 time in total.
Your front swivel base is correct. This base had the two screws in it, just like yours, except with the addition of two knurled nuts securing it in place. The heads of both the front and back screws were identical and looked just like yours. The first time I came across one of these Marlin Model 1936 Deluxes, I looked at it and thought, "Gee, what a neat rifle, but I wonder who added these swivels." Little did I know at that time, that these were the correct swivel bases, and yes, I did buy it. The swivels that were used are the Winchester deluxe quick release swivels that Marlin continued to use on the Model 36 Deluxe and the Model 336 Deluxe. 1962 was the last year Marlin used these. I don't know if these were actually made by Winchester or if Marlin and Winchester bought them from the same supplier.
There is no way of knowing how many of these 50 are left, that's why I have been trying to accumulate the information on the known ones still existing.
Yes, they did make them in the .30-30 caliber. Probably about 2/3's were made in the .30-30 caliber and 1/3rd in the .32 Special.
Yeah if you look in the pic mine has the knurled nuts.. Not very effective but still there.. It would be neat to know how many 32 special deluxes are still in existence with the original hardware..
I'm looking for any info any experts on this forum might be able to offer on my Marlin model1936 Serial number is 9361. no prefix. I recieved it from my dad about a year ago and he believes one of his parents owned it originally. So I look at it as a family heirloom. I've been looking thru this forum and learning what i can. So if I got it all right this should be an early production1938 ish. Oh if you all are interested its a 32 spec. Thanks for everything.
Tim
Your Model 1936 is a first model production. It has the perch belly forearm and fluted butt stock, with a straight hard rubber serated butt plate. As you gave no indictation of which style it might be, it was available in three variations. A Rifle with a 24 inch round barrel and 2/3 magazine tube; a Sporting Carbine, which is identical to the rifle except is has a 20 inch barrel, and the Regular Carbine, which has a 20 inch barrel and a full magazine. On the barrel, it would be marked accordingly: "A" for rifle; "SC" for sporting carbine; and "RC" for regular carbine. It was available in two calibers, the .30-30 and, like yours, the .32 Special. From your serial number, 9361, with no prefix, I would guess it was late '38 or into the '39 year.
I tried to cover the general chacteristics of the Model 1936, but if you have a specific question, please ask.
Don,
Thanks for the info. However I could not find any markings on the barrel to identify what variant it was. I'm guessing its a regular carbine since the magazine is almost as long at the barrel. I was also wondering what type of ammo besides handloads most of the other owners are using. My local gun store doesn't carry much, I was wondering if anyone else has used the Hornady Leverlution on these types of rifles and what their experience with them has been. I've been using the winchester ammo and it's been pretty good for me. Again thanks alot.
Tim
Your Model 1936 is definitely a "RC" regular carbine. It has the 20 inch barrel and full magazine, along with the front barrel band on the forearm, which was found only on the regular carbines. The rifles and the sporting carbines both had a forearm cap instead of a barrel band.
Marlin introduced the model 1936 rifle to compete with Winchester's Model 64.
I have a Marlin Model 1936 32 Special, serial #8810 that was given to me by my Grandpa. When he gave it to me the receiver was missing. He had taken it to a local gun shop to have the firing pin replaced and after hearing nothing from them for a month or two, he visited the shop to find out they had gone out of business and taken everything with them. I had a terrible time tracking down replacement parts and ended up using the receiver from a Marlin 1893. It works great but I am disappointing that I don't have all original parts. I know these are fairly scarce rifles but if anyone knows of a place I might be able to find model 1936 parts if I should need any in the future, it would be much appreciated.
-Ryan
I also have a Marlin Model 1936 (30/30) with S/N 1859. It has a plain stock and forearm (no checkering). It still works and looks great (pictures later). It has been tapped for a scope and has the base on the gun. I have the scope and rings, but didn't know if it was better with or without it. Is the value any different tapped or not? I am actually looking to find out more about when it was made, how rare it is and a ball park of what it is worth. It is my first hunting rifle, handed down from my dad.
Please scroll back to the various comments on the Model 1936 and you'll be able to find out the various characteristics of the first and second variations of the prewar Model 1936's, and you'll be able to indentify whether you have a regular carbine, sporting carbine or rifle. If you have no letter in front of your serial number, it's a first model. With the low serial number 1859, it was probably made in 1937, as production in 1936 didn't start until late in the year.
Yes, having the receiver drilled and tapped will affect the value, as it did not come from the factory with it drilled. How much will depend on the overall condition of the gun. If it has seen a lot of use and all the case coloring is gone from the receiver, the original varnish on the wood is gone, and there is bluing ware on the barrel, the drilling and tapping isn't going to make much difference in value. Overall condition determines the value of this gun or any other gun. The closer it looks to "factory new", the more value it has.
It's impossible to determine the value of your particular gun without seeing it or having some pictures of it.
I have pictures on my computer of my 1936, but not sure how to upload them to post them here?
I don't know how to use the Img icon above. Any help would be appreciated.
Just to keep this string going I thought I would post some photos of my 1936 Marlins. The top one is 1936 Rifle, cal .30-30,serial # B8724. This gun is Canadian Military marked and seen use with PCMR (see page 597 of Brophy's book). The bottom gun is the Sporting Carbine, .30-30, serial number B6140. I'm still looking for a Carbine to complete the set.
Road King
Road King
" More guns then I need, but not as many as I want."
