Model 39A bolt fitting

[Emmett Dunham]

I posted for imformation on a 39 I have and the comments came back that I can use the 39A bolt in the 39 but it may need fitting. Is fitting the bolt, headspace the rifle or is there more ot fitting than headspace.


Emmett

P.S. I found a new 39A bolt on MidWay at a fair price and is back ordered.

[Sure-Shot]

Another place to try is wisnersinc.com as for the modification ask Marlinman 93, and ask him to post it as I am curious also.

[marlinman93]

Fitting the bolt is usually not a huge task, and rarely is excess headspace an issue.
The bolts will generally start into the opening, but need some stoning, or removal of material from top and bottom to final fit properly. Once you get the bolt you can run it in and check the fit.
I like to take it off the top mostly, and I start by polishing the top to a bare mirror finsih. Then I "paint" it with machinist's dye, and slide it in. This will mark the spots where it is rubbing, and you can work these wih a hard stone, or very fine mill file. I generally hold the bolt and work them across the file or stone, and not the other way.
When you get it to fit nicely, then lube it with some gun oil and check the travel by hand. Should move freely, but not sloppy.
Now you need to try it with the lever in place, as this is what headspaces the bolt on the barrel. The lever should make contact with the bolt and not have much resistance when closed. If it is hard to completely close then material will need to be taken off the angled edge of the bolt, where the lever is binding.
Once you get the bolt to close freely, then put a spent case in the chamber, and try it again, to be sure the case wont change headspace!
If the lever closes freely when first installed, (before fitting!) then put a small piece of black electrician's tape (33+) on the base of a spent cartridge. Try closing the lever with this in place, and if it closes without resistance use a second layer. If the second layer still closes easily you have excess headspace and will need to buildup the angled edge of the new breechbolt, with a weld. One tape is OK, two layers is excess!
Hope this helps.-Vall

[Emmett Dunham]

Thank you, for the imformation on how to fit the bolt, I will use it to do the fitting. I just about have all of the parts gathered to put the rifle together, cleaning up the rifle is a major part of getting it ready to shoot. I found most of the parts I needed on Midways and Brownells web sits for anyone looking to replace parts.


Emmett

[Hunt4em]

Emmett,
There is a bolt listed on Gunbroker.com, item #85056857. $49 plus $4 shipping. If your in a hurry and don't mind a few extra bucks thrown at your rifle.

John

[Emmett Dunham]

Thanks, for the heads up on the 39 bolt, If these are early 39 bolts I don't want one in the rifle I have, I want to be able to shoot modern ammo in the rifle. I sent a note and asked if the seller knew which bolt he had, it might be dangerious to install these bolts in a modern rilfle if they are early.

Notice how Gun Broker does not have auctions, they have people listing items for sale. The 39A bolt new is 40.00 and this guy starts his for 49.00 and he can keep listing it for sale at no extra charge. One thing I miss about e-bay is that it is truely a auction and each time the seller lists an item he is charged a fee.

Thanks, again


Emmett

[Hunt4em]

Emmett,
Gunbroker is the only "TRUE" auction site! If someone bids in the last 15 min. then another 15 minutes is added to the ending time, every time this occurs. It's not a matter of who has the fastest internet connection, like Ebay! I agree his asking price is a bit much, I was just letting you know in case you were in a hurry to get a bolt and didn't mind a few extra dollars put into your gun.

John

P.S. Let me know about the other bolt we've been discussing on M.O..

[Truckeic]

Hey Marlinman93

I am looking at buying a 39a..SN J18xx.
It is missing a bolt. How hard would it be to fit and headspace a new bolt...
Would love to have one if these guns just don't want to buy a mess..

Tganks

Fitting the bolt is usually not a huge task, and rarely is excess headspace an issue.
The bolts will generally start into the opening, but need some stoning, or removal of material from top and bottom to final fit properly. Once you get the bolt you can run it in and check the fit.
I like to take it off the top mostly, and I start by polishing the top to a bare mirror finsih. Then I "paint" it with machinist's dye, and slide it in. This will mark the spots where it is rubbing, and you can work these wih a hard stone, or very fine mill file. I generally hold the bolt and work them across the file or stone, and not the other way.
When you get it to fit nicely, then lube it with some gun oil and check the travel by hand. Should move freely, but not sloppy.
Now you need to try it with the lever in place, as this is what headspaces the bolt on the barrel. The lever should make contact with the bolt and not have much resistance when closed. If it is hard to completely close then material will need to be taken off the angled edge of the bolt, where the lever is binding.
Once you get the bolt to close freely, then put a spent case in the chamber, and try it again, to be sure the case wont change headspace!
If the lever closes freely when first installed, (before fitting!) then put a small piece of black electrician's tape (33+) on the base of a spent cartridge. Try closing the lever with this in place, and if it closes without resistance use a second layer. If the second layer still closes easily you have excess headspace and will need to buildup the angled edge of the new breechbolt, with a weld. One tape is OK, two layers is excess!
Hope this helps.-Vall