Marlin 36 hammer spring.

[DM32]

Howdy. I have a Marlin 36 A-DL .30-30 that had an incorrect stock on it when I bought it. I'm in the process of restocking it.
The question I have concerns the hammer spring (coil). The plate that it compresses against fits in notches (top and bottom). There's three notches - it's now in the middle. I can't find any info online about that set-up, but I'm guessing that the different notches allow the hammer strike to be adjusted. It's not a big deal, but I'm curious about it.
Any info would be great.
Thanks.

[DM32]

As I said above, I'm fitting a new stock to the model 36. I've never fitted a stock before but I'm taking my time, watching videos, reading instructions, etc. But, I hit a snag. I used an inletting black to mark where wood should be removed, but nothing I did could bring the stock right up to where it should be. And, when I pulled the hammer back, the stock was pushed backwards even further. Then it dawned on me - the hammer spring guide rod pushes back when the hammer is cocked, and there's no hole or relief in the new stock to accept it, so it pushes the stock backwards. Even if I adjusted the hammer spring tension, that guide rod travels the same distance.
I wish I could get back the brain cells I lost working out that simple problem.

[marlinman93]

Yes, the slots adjust spring tension so you can raise or lower hammer strike pressure. The furthest back is where I usually put the retainer as it lightens up the action feel when cycling the lever, and for my Marlins that has never created any misfires from a light strike.

The stocks often require more relief in certain areas when you fit a semi inletted stock. Likely the stock was cut for a Model 1936, and with a Model 36 you'll need to open up a channel in the stock to allow for the mainspring guide rod. A small thin dab of putty applied in the area works well to let you know where the rod is hitting. Then you can use a drill bit to carefully drill a hole. Measure how far back the rod moves when you cock the hammer, and drill that depth. Any more depth is just a waste of time.

[DM32]

I put inletting black on the guide rod and drilled a small hole where it touched the wood. Now it works fine. I'm pretty much done with fitting the rest of the stock. Not perfect, but what the heck.

[DM32]

What type of butt plate would this stock use?

[marlinman93]

The Model 36 and earlier 1936 used a black hard rubber buttplate.
Modern repros are made of black plastic, that looks very close to hard rubber. Places like Vintage Grips carry these, but measure top to bottom height on your stock to check against their listings.

Here's one at GB you can see the buttplate on.

https://www.gunbroker.com/item/935297487

Vintage grips has two that are different sizes.

https://www.vintagegungrips.com/shop/page/3/?ap=m

[DM32]

Great Thanks.

[DM32]

Question of the day. Like Jimmy Durante, "I got a million of em."
Is the hammer screw for the 336 the same as the 36?

[marlinman93]

Yes, they are the same. And I think even the 336 hammer screw is the same, but not 100% positive. I don't have all three guns anymore, but used to have 1893, 1936, 36, and 336, and seems they all used the same hammer screw?

[DM32]

I had not taken the rifle completely apart for a deep cleaning, but it was time. Most of the screws were pretty well frozen but some PB Blaster and a little heat loosened them. Except for that hammer screw - it seemed to be welded in. I soaked it, heated it, soaked and heated some more, but t was stuck. And, the head had been mangled by someone in the past. I thought I might have to drill it out. Then I saw a video online showing how to use a drill press to get it out. Chuck the screw driver bit in, put alot of downward pressure on the screw head, and turn the press by hand. It worked. Now I have to clean the screw up but it's fine.
That rifle is dirty inside.