removing scratches and pits from a reciever

[marlin93]

i wish to properly prep a 1893 reciever for finishing. it has some pits and surface scratches which need to be removed. the trick is not to ruin the factory lines . everything must remain true. i have the skill but want to get some ideas from those of you who have been there and done that. some of the things that come to mind are using mill files, sanding forms. maybe a glass lapping plate. or should i just bring it to a machine shop and let them take off the minimal amount with a milling machine or surface grinder. the scratches are not all that deep but on a gun reciever i don't know what "deep" is. most of the marks are on the top of the reciever on the chamferd edges. i was thinking , what if i made a mold of fiberglass and bondo then put sandpaper in it to work away the pits and marks? this should maintain the true lines and chamfers. any comments and advise is appreciated thanks bill

[Sure-Shot]

I am aware that some folks, depending on the depth of the pitts, tig weld some material in. Otherwise what you are proposing to do all sound reasonable. Problem though refinishing will damage collectors value unless done to museum quality which will cost as much to do as it increases value in most cases. That said be cautious around markings as that is the first part you are likely to remove.

[Wishbone]

Just a quick word of advise about tig welding -
Make darn sure you or the guy who is doing this kind of work knows EXACTLY what they are doing.
I have been down this road with someone who claimed to be an expert at this, and ended up practically ruining a pretty decent old rifle.
Be carefull !

WB

[marlin93]

ya i wouldn't do any welding unless there was no other option. ruining an old gun would be painfull

[marlinman93]

I would really hesitate to ever mill the surface of an 1893. Once milled, it would still take a lot of hand work to remove polishing marks, so you might as well just do the hand work to start with. I also would avoid mill files, as they can leave file marks that again take lots of work to remove.
I would use sanding blocks and paper to work the surface to a smooth finish. For the rounded reas of the receiver I find that blocks shaped to fit these areas will work best, and I keep these marked with a felt pen for future use. The area where the receiver curves to meet the buttstock and forearm are good examples. I have a flat block with the edge rounded so it will work right into the curve.
I hand sand the tangs, and outside edge of the lever and hammer. I block sand the flat edges of these parts. Since the 1893's were casehardened, you don't have to get these parts perfect, as the case colors will hide minor imperfections, whereas blued parts need to be as perfect as possible!-Vall

[marlin93]

what grit paper do you generaly start out with?

[Jim D]

Bill,

I would avoid mill files as Marlinman93 suggests, but if you can find a good set of diamond files, they will not gouge the metal. For polishing I start with 150-180 grit if it's rough, 220 if it's not, and work down to 400 for case hardened finishes, or even 1500 grit for a highly polished surface if it is to be blued.

-jim

[marlin93]

thanks jim and val------would anyone happen to know where to get like new replacement screws. some of mine are so badly messed up i dont want to use them.

[marlinman93]

Sorry for not responding Bill! Forgot to check back in, but looks like Jim gave great advice!
For screws I use Brownells, as the 336 screws will work fine in your 1893.-Vall

[marlin93]

egunparts.com also has origanal screws and parts i discovered.

[marlinman93]

That's Numrich Gun Parts, and I'd advise you to steer clear of them if possible. I limit what I buy from them to things I just can't find anywhere else! Their screws are all wrong, with the wrong slot size, head shape, and often too big a head to even fit the recess in the frame! I bought screws from them for a 1889 Marlin once and I couldn't find a screwdriver thin enough to fit the slots! I ended up tossing them, and getting another set for it.
Their return policy sucks too. They sent me a bad pawl (no spring!) for a Colt SAA, and when I called them to ask for another one, or a spring, they told me to ship it back first (at my expense!) then they tried to charge me for shipping again on the good pawl!

[marlin93]

thanks vall, i had already ordered some screws from them. i'll let you know if they screw up my order. ---bill

[marlin93]

recieved my order today. they only messed up one item. got lucky i guess. -------- when you are sanding for case hardening parts do you try to sand out every imperfection or do you call it good at some point. i dont mind the elbow grease but some specks , scratches. or depresions would require alot of sanding.

[marlinman93]

recieved my order today. they only messed up one item. got lucky i guess. -------- when you are sanding for case hardening parts do you try to sand out every imperfection or do you call it good at some point. i dont mind the elbow grease but some specks , scratches. or depresions would require alot of sanding.

I don't try to get extremely small imperfections, as casehardening will normally camoflage some minor spots. Bluing requires perfection, as everything shows. Always sand vertically on receivers, never end to end!

[marlin93]

i assume you mean sand the long direction in line with the bolt? someone sanded the barrel as if it were on a lathe. isn't it supost to be sanded in the long direction? thanks vall------bill