Fitting a cresent butt plate

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Jim D
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Fitting a cresent butt plate

Post by Jim D »

I recently purchased an 1889 PG Deluxe rifle that didn't have a butt stock or butt plate. Fitting a butt plate can be a time consuming and frustrating task so I thought I'd document the process and present it here.

Starting with a rough shaped stock:
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The butt plate is from Brownells and is a copy of a Marlin 1893 butt plate which will work for the 1889, 1893, 1894 and 1895 rifles. The screw holes will be drilled latter.
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Make sure the side of the butt plate that goes towards the wood is flat and smooth. File it flat if necessary.
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This flat area is key to how well the butt plate will fit. If it slopes front to rear, or side to side, the butt plate will not be positioned properly on the stock. Very carefully file this area flat checking to make sure that when the butt plate rests on this flat area that it is not twisted or skewed on the stock. File this area down only enough that the top of the butt plate is just below the top of the wood. I noticed that the butt plate that I got from Brownells was a little longer than an original Marlin butt plate so that it stuck down farther than the toe of the stock. This excess will be removed later.
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Make sure that the butt plate is not tilted, and lines up with the axis of the stock.
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For the balance of the fitting, picture the butt plate sliding forward on the flat area at the top of the stock. You will not need to remove any more wood from this area. You will only need to remove wood from the cresent or curved area, and the flat front area. As you remove wood from these two places, the butt plate essentially slides forward.
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For the balance of the fitting process, I use Lamp Black which cleans up with water.
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Put a coat of lamp black on the inside surfaces of the butt plate. Too thin and it will dry out quickly, too thick and you will get a false reading of the high spots.
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Place the butt plate carefully on the stock, sliding it on the flat area until it makes contact. Your first try will probably only indicate a few high spots. Remove the butt plate and carefully file down the high spots. Only take off a little material each time. If you take off too much, you will be chasing your tail. You may have to repeat this process fifty times or more to get a good fit. Be patient. A couple of strokes with the file each time is all that you want to do. Resist the urge to file on the flat area! IMPORTANT: If you tilt the butt plate as you place it on the stock, you will leave lamp black on the toe area of the stock. Even if it doesn't need to be filed down, it will look like it does.
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Eventually you will end up with the lamp black showing a fit all the way around.
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Next, I have drilled and counter sunk the holes for the screws. I then place the butt plate on the stock and center punch the screw holes. IMPORTANT: Resist the urge to drill these holes until you're completely done with the fitting of the butt plate to the stock. If you don't, and go back and do more fitting, you will have problems.
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Drill a slightly undersized hole the full depth of the screw length. Coat the screws with paste wax before screwing them in. The screws should go in fairly easily. If they don't , drill a slightly larger hole. If you really crank on the screw to get it to go in, YOU WILL CRACK YOUR STOCK! Use extra care with the toe screw.
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Once the butt plate is screwed to the stock, I use a belt sander sand down the wood and metal together. Use great care with a belt sander. It's advantage is that it removes a lot of material quickly. It's disadvantage is that it removes a lot of material quickly. Go slow and don't gouge the wood.
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If you are patient and take your time, you will get a fit that you can be proud of!
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-jim
Sure-Shot
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Re: Fitting a cresent butt plate

Post by Sure-Shot »

Another great pictorial that makes understanding what you are explaining easier. Thank you for sharing. Hope you come back and post the finished stock photo. That wood looks like it is going to have a lot of character.
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Jim D
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Re: Fitting a cresent butt plate

Post by Jim D »

Well, it took me a while to get some pics of the finished stock, but here it is:
-jim
Image
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marlinman93
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Re: Fitting a cresent butt plate

Post by marlinman93 »

You make that look way too easy Jim! Great tutorial, and pictures too! Have you ever tried bending the Brownells buttplates? I found that many crescent buttplates are really soft, and a little work with a leather mallet and blocks of wood will make them easier to fit, if the curve doesn't quite match.
Ken (leverdude) pointed me towards Numrich for cheap crescent repro buttplates. They sell the leftovers from Marlin's run of crescent plates from the model 1895 Ltd., and they are in nearly finished condition, complete with holes drilled. I bought one for my 1888 project gun, and the only thing different was it was too long, like the Brownells repro.-Vall
Sure-Shot
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Re: Fitting a cresent butt plate

Post by Sure-Shot »

Thank you for the finish pictures that is some very nice wood and looks fantastic. The checkering is great.
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Jim D
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Re: Fitting a cresent butt plate

Post by Jim D »

Vall,

I appreciate the two tips!

I haven't had a need to bend a buttplate since I usually am fiting them to a new stock. I'm not surprised that they will bend easily since they are in dead soft, as cast condition when you get them. I do flatten the inside faces since they aren't quite flat when you get them, and that can cause lots of fitting headaches!

I'll have to check out Numrich's site. That sounds like the way to go!

-jim
Jim D
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Re: Fitting a cresent butt plate

Post by Jim D »

Thanks Sure-Shot. Sorry it took so long!

-jim
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marlinman93
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Re: Fitting a cresent butt plate

Post by marlinman93 »

The angle on that first picture of the finished gun really threw me! It looked like it was a couple inches short of standard! Once I got to the second pic I realised the first was at an angle and made it look short!
Marlin lever actions 1870's-WWI, Ballards, and single shot rifles!
Jim D
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Re: Fitting a cresent butt plate

Post by Jim D »

Yeah, I was trying to hold the gun and the camera and trying to get an angle where there wasn't a lot of reflection off the stock. It does kinda look like a really short stock!

-jim
Jim D
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Re: Fitting a cresent butt plate

Post by Jim D »

Vall,
I wish the thing shot as good as it turned out. It has a very nice bore; shiney with sharp rifling. But it spits the lead all over the place with factory 100 gr lead loads. I suspect that bore diameter may be quit a bit oversized. I need to slug the bore and find out what's going on. Have you found 32WCF 1889's to have oversized bores? From looking at various molds, it looks like .313" is as big as I can cast.

-jim
Sure-Shot
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Re: Fitting a cresent butt plate

Post by Sure-Shot »

JimD resizing a mould .001 or 002 is doable if your carefull. Pour a couple bullets then drill a centering hole on the top screw in a screw and remove the top of the screw, coat in jewelers rouge, put in a drill and slowly close the mould over it. Easy does it to avoid getting off center. If not large enough pour a couple more and repeat.
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Jim D
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Re: Fitting a cresent butt plate

Post by Jim D »

Great tip Sure-Shot!

-jim
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marlinman93
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Re: Fitting a cresent butt plate

Post by marlinman93 »

Hi Jim,
I haven't owned a lot of 1889's in .32-20, so can't make a definitive answer to your questin. In general, I have (and have had) a lot of Marlins in .32-20, and every one that had a good bore shot .312" bullets with superb accurcy. They surely weren't picky either, as they did well with almost any pistol powder I tried. The .32-20 happens to be my favorite pistol caliber for rifles, and in my opinion inherently accurate in a good bore rifle.
Marlin lever actions 1870's-WWI, Ballards, and single shot rifles!
Jim D
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Re: Fitting a cresent butt plate

Post by Jim D »

Vall, Sure-Shot:

I found the following on reloadammo.com. This may explain my problems since I was shooting factory ammo. Looks like I'm going to have to pull a bullet (lead) from the factory stuff to see if it mics .308". That would be a good .005" undersized!

-jim

"The OLDER guns were chambered for bullets of .312" for jacketed and .313" for lead. The newer guns have been chambered to work with .308" jacketed bullets. You must determine what the bore of your guns is and choose the correct bullet. If you used the older guns, you could use the smaller diameter bullets with some loss of accuracy. Do NOT use .312" or .313" bullets in the newer and smaller bore guns. However, one of the Ruger Blackhawk guns I came accross, had a .312" grove diameter.
Do not use anything but light loads and lead bullets in these older revolvers.
The Thompson Contender (T/C) has the smaller .308" grove. Don't use larger bullets for the T/C. "
Sure-Shot
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Re: Fitting a cresent butt plate

Post by Sure-Shot »

I am surprised they used such a large difference, it sure does explain the group size.
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