Model 1893
Moderators: Regnier (gunrunner), JohnK, Sure-Shot
Model 1893
I just purchased a Marlin Model 1893, .38-55, made in 1895. The bore is absolutely beautiful (no, has not been relined) and shoots cast loads extremely well but primers back out .015" above flush. Three questions: 1) Am I at risk with this headspace? 2) how and who can make the headspace "go away"? and 3) Where can I get new (receiver) screws to replace mine that are bugered (sp?) up beyond repair?
Headspace in older rifles is common. This is a result of the softer steel and why people shouldn't shoot jacketed bullet reloads or new factory jacketed ammo.
What has happened is that the soft steel of the locking lug and slot in the receiver for same have become peened by much shooting and are no longer at factory spec dimensions. This can be cured by building up the locking block with welding and carefully machining to the wider dimensions of the slot.
OR, you can seat your bullets out to touch the rifling. This works on the bottleneck rounds like 30-30 & 32HPS, but I have no actual experience with the 38-55.
If the gun is otherwise sound, you can occasionally shoot mild cast loads and not wreck it.
If you have someone like Doug Turnbull address your headspace, he can also cure the deformed screws. This is done by building them up with weld and cutting new screw slots. The new screw head is then tempered & will last much better than the original. You can do an engine search for that restorer - I haven't his web site handy. Know well that this will not be cheap! SW
What has happened is that the soft steel of the locking lug and slot in the receiver for same have become peened by much shooting and are no longer at factory spec dimensions. This can be cured by building up the locking block with welding and carefully machining to the wider dimensions of the slot.
OR, you can seat your bullets out to touch the rifling. This works on the bottleneck rounds like 30-30 & 32HPS, but I have no actual experience with the 38-55.
If the gun is otherwise sound, you can occasionally shoot mild cast loads and not wreck it.
If you have someone like Doug Turnbull address your headspace, he can also cure the deformed screws. This is done by building them up with weld and cutting new screw slots. The new screw head is then tempered & will last much better than the original. You can do an engine search for that restorer - I haven't his web site handy. Know well that this will not be cheap! SW
I am really not an expert - distinguished or otherwise!!
- marlinman93
- Distinguished Expert
- Posts: 2977
- Joined: Sun Nov 10, 2002 1:22 pm
- Location: Portland, Oregon
M1893 Headspace
I have a M1893 in 38-55, same vintage, that I reload with Pyrodex and cast bullets that has the same problem. Based on a repair suggested for Winchester M1873 with headspace problems from the softer period steels in Chicoine's book, Gunsmithing guns of the old west, I did the following. I cut an appropriate shim from a feeler gauge and silver soldered it to the face of the bolt. It solved the problem of the primer backing out of the cartridge case. After firing it approx 30-40 times the shim shot loose, probably the result of not a real good soldering job on my part not wanting to apply too much heat with a propane torch. I have not re-soldered and gone shooting to date, but will as I have gained more soldering experience repairing the barrels on an AH Fox SXS. This is a simple home gunsmithing repair that worked for me, though I never experienced any problems shooting before making the repair. Good luck,
Jim
Jim
- marlinman93
- Distinguished Expert
- Posts: 2977
- Joined: Sun Nov 10, 2002 1:22 pm
- Location: Portland, Oregon
daven,
When you reload for a model 1893 with a bit of headspace, simply set your dies to not fully resize the brass. If you run your dies down against the shellholder, then back them off about 1/8" clear of the shell holder, they wont set the shoulder back. That way they will form to your particular chamber, and wont back out the primers in subsequent firings.
When you reload for a model 1893 with a bit of headspace, simply set your dies to not fully resize the brass. If you run your dies down against the shellholder, then back them off about 1/8" clear of the shell holder, they wont set the shoulder back. That way they will form to your particular chamber, and wont back out the primers in subsequent firings.
Marlin lever actions 1870's-WWI, Ballards, and single shot rifles!